T90 clutch slip

[Zunspec]

I'll be interested to find out how you get on. Most people use modern multigrade oils without any problems.

Hi truffle,

With the 20-20 vision of hind-sight I did notice similar symptoms the first time I got the bike running but being more used to Japanese engines where the clutch does run in engine oil I did not twig there might be a potential problem. I would guess they use different friction material in their clutch plates.

You live and learn .

Cheers Geoff

[Zunspec]

Phew, I know how truffle is feeling, damn Triumphs.

Had the clutch plates in, the clutch plates out, and mixed them all about. Finally I just screwed the springs in until they could go no further and backed off a 1/2 turn, success no more slip when kick starting. Buttoned it all up, tickled the carb, and gave it a lunge and it started first kick. Bugger knows if the oil leaks are fixed that quest seemed to go by the wayside .

Cheers Zunspec

[truffle]

Thanks for that.
Haven't put cover back on mine yet as I damaged the gasket in taking it off last time and need to get something in a tube to help the seal.
Maybe I'll give the nuts an extra turn or 2 before I do.

Truffle

[Zunspec]

Hi truffle,

I might have gone bit over the top but I was getting somewhat cheesed off. I would suggest you keep on screwing those special nuts in a 1/2 to 1 turn at a time until the slip disappears, then turn another 1 turn to make sure.

Cheers Geoff

[Paul in NZ]

Brake cleaner is great for de greasing clutch plates

Winding the springs up to bursting point will help but just wears out the operation mechanism and cable faster. Check the oil you are using as it must not have friction modifiers in it as these will make the clutch slip. Try a motorcycle specific oil designed for wet clutches.

Also - if you pull the plates again fit a set of new springs as these do loose their tension over time.

[Zunspec]

Hi Paul,

New plain plates, new friction plates, new springs, new pressure plate, new clutch centre/shock absorber, new clutch basket/chain wheel, classic type oil etc. Both myself and truffle suffered the same problem. My latest diagnosis is the I did not put enough tension into the springs. Admittedly screwing the adjuster nuts almost all the way in might be over the top but I was getting a bit pi**ed off in the end.

Cheers Geoff

[Willpower]

Could it be that the clutch operating rod is too long and not allowing the plates to fully meet?

[trophy]

Could it be that the clutch operating rod is too long and not allowing the plates to fully meet?

this would fit with the clutch not slipping when hot ,as the clutch expands thepressure plate will move away from the clutch push rod to check slacken thecentre screw right off you should have lots of free play at the handlebar lever ..it will also put slightly more pressure on the springs.have you got the right combination of springs and cups.as other people have said you should not have clutch slip when starting a 350 twin .good luck.

[truffle]

Ok. Everything is back together again. I have screwed in the springs more than before and have found a thinner oil (5 - 30). Started first kick but then it would as no oil actually on the plates. I went for a run a few hours ago, no problems and I've just been out to the garage as it will have cooled down and still no slip. Hopefully problem solved. Tomorrow morning will tell. Now I don't know if it was tensioning up the springs more or the thinner oil that cured the problem. Putting in new springs would have been the correct route to take - maybe in the autumn.
Thanks for your help. Hopefully you will not be hearing from me again, at least on this subject

[trophy]

re reading the thread i see you are backing of the centre screw quarter of a turn most manuals recommend aFULLturn the hugie hancock video recomends half a turn .. a quarter turn is marginal if the clutch beds in slightly you would lose this gap.